Vienna's markets are not copies of each other. One sits at the foot of the cathedral and another has sold glass ornaments since the 18th century. The biggest turns the City Hall park into skating paths, while the smallest hides in the Biedermeier lanes behind the museums. The only real decision is the order, and on foot that order makes itself.
01Christmas Village on Stephansplatz
- Outdoors
- U1 and U3 Stephansplatz
- Open 24 to 26 Dec
About forty huts gather at the foot of St. Stephen's Cathedral, the Gothic church whose tiled roof you will see on every postcard. The stalls lean toward quality goods made in Austria rather than souvenirs, and the setting does the rest. It opens early, in the first week of November, and stays open over Christmas.
Start here at duskCome as the light goes, when the cathedral is lit and the shop windows around the square start to glow. Buy your first mug here, then walk up the Graben, the wide pedestrian street hung with giant chandeliers of light.
11 am to 9 pm every day; shorter hours over Christmas (to 4 pm on the 24th, to 7 pm on the 25th and 26th)
02The market Am Hof
- Outdoors
- About 8 min from Stephansplatz
- Choirs
A big, square plaza a few minutes beyond the Graben, framed by a golden arch of lights and a church front with a balcony. The huts here sell top-end crafts in ceramic, wood, felt and glass, while choirs and brass groups take turns on most evenings. Food carries on an hour after the stalls close.
Go here for giftsThis is where to buy something hand-made to take home. Then stand by the music with a Punsch. The horse-drawn Fiaker carriages often wait at the edge of the square.
Monday to Thursday 11 am to 9 pm, Friday to Sunday from 10 am; food until 10 pm
03The old Viennese market on the Freyung
- Outdoors
- About 10 min from Stephansplatz
- Since 1772
A market was held on this triangular square as early as 1772, and the Altwiener Christkindlmarkt still sells what it always did, above all blown-glass tree ornaments and hand-carved nativity figures. It is smaller and calmer than the big squares nearby, which is the point.
Time it rightAdvent music starts at 4 pm. Arrive just before, browse the glass stalls while it is still light, and stay for a song or two before you head on to the City Hall.
Daily 10 am to 9 pm; closes for the season on 23 December
The trick with Vienna's markets is not to pick one. Walk from the cathedral to Spittelberg, and let each square do the one thing it does best.
04The Viennese Christmas Market at Rathausplatz
- Outdoors
- U2 Rathaus
- Ice paths
- Open 24 to 26 Dec
The big one, and the one most visitors mean when they say "the Vienna Christmas market". You walk in under an arch of candles, past the neo-Gothic City Hall, into rows of stalls selling gifts and warm drinks. In the park beside it, children get a reindeer train and a 12-meter carousel on several levels, and the Vienna Ice World winds skating paths between the trees.
Go earlyOn Friday and Saturday evenings the lanes slow to a shuffle. Come at opening time or before 6 pm on a weekday, skate first while the ice is quiet, then find the tree of hearts in the park.
Daily 10 am to 10 pm; 24 December until 6:30 pm; ice skating until 6 January (closed 31 December)
05Christmas Village on Maria-Theresien-Platz
- Outdoors
- U2 and U3 Volkstheater
- About 70 stalls
Cross the Ring from the Hofburg and you are between two domed museums, the Kunsthistorisches and the Naturhistorisches. Around seventy stalls of crafts fill the gardens around the statue of Empress Maria Theresa, and the crowds are thinner than at the City Hall.
Stop for a mugThis is the place for a slower Punsch between the two lit facades, halfway along the walk. It opens a week after the others, so check the date if you arrive early in November.
Monday to Friday 11 am to 9 pm, weekends from 10 am; open until 26 December
06Spittelberg, in the Biedermeier lanes
- Outdoors
- About 5 min from the museums
- Weekdays from 2 pm
Behind the museums the streets narrow into the old Spittelberg quarter, where low houses from the early 19th century line cobbled lanes. Stalls tuck into doorways and courtyards along four streets, with plenty of fair-trade and organic goods you will not see on the big squares.
End the evening hereIt opens late on weekdays and stays open until 9:30 pm, so it suits the last stretch of the walk. The bars in the lanes keep going after the stalls close.
Monday to Friday 2 pm to 9:30 pm; weekends and holidays 11 am to 9:30 pm
07The Christmas market in front of Schönbrunn Palace
- Outdoors
- U4 Schönbrunn
- Ice rink
- Until 6 January
Huts and a tall tree fill the palace forecourt, with the yellow facade of the Habsburgs' summer residence behind. Children get a lit carousel, a handicraft workshop and a small Ferris wheel, and adults an ice rink and curling lanes. It opens first, in early November, and closes last, on 6 January.
Make a day of itTour the state rooms in the afternoon, then step out into the courtyard as the palace lights come on. If you are going to a concert in the Orangery, eat at the market first: it closes before the music ends.
10 am to 9 pm; closes at 4 pm on Christmas Eve, then runs 10 am to 7 pm until 6 January
6Within a 40-minute walk
4Open on 25 and 26 December
1772First market on the Freyung
6 JanLast day at Schönbrunn
Hours follow what the organizers published for the current season, and walking times are rough. Every date and opening hour in one table.